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Why Wildlife Is Returning to Eastern Kentucky

The past 20-plus years of mass media reporting on the environment has been dominated by predictions of cataclysmic catastrophe and mayhem, although during my life, I’ve seen a very different story.

Growing up in Eastern Kentucky, deer were few, with no bear, coyotes, turkeys, mountain lions, bald eagles, and certainly no elk. Today, all of these species are present again. Positive things are happening. Wildlife is naturally returning and many species are rebounding with streams cleaner than they’ve been in decades.

Elk enjoying a reclaimed surface coal mine in Martin County, Ky., on Aug. 20, 2015. (Chris Musgrave)

How can this be? For years, doomsayers have warned about the end of nature if we didn’t turn the American way of life on its head; they may find it ironic that capitalism funds the successful environmental protections that we do have.

Recently, I took my family to the Salato Wildlife Center in Frankfort, Kentucky. Throughout that gem, you can find the answers of how this can be.

Blight and Restoration

How did the dearth of nature come to be in the first place?

At the turn of the century, the chestnut blight in the eastern part of the country—where strong, rot-resistant chestnut trees that grew since time immemorial fell in mere decades—along with irresponsible clear-cut logging led to ancient forest floors in the mountains to be washed out. The ecology, flora and fauna, and economies tied to chestnuts were devastated. The old-growth forests are now lost except for small pockets such as in Blanton Forest in Harlan County.

(Daniel Ulrich)
(Daniel Ulrich)

At the same time, many wildlife populations crashed due to overhunting and habitat loss. The Great Depression caused remaining species such as deer, rabbits, and squirrels to be hunted for food, with no regard for conservation as people struggled to survive and feed their families. As the Depression ended and most places prospered, much of Appalachia remained impoverished.

Hunting and fishing licenses are the backbone of conservation and restoration efforts. Hunters funded the successful reestablishment of elk, to the point that we now have regular seasons for hunting.

An active coal temple in Pike County, Ky., on Aug. 10, 2011. (Chris Musgrave)
The reclaimed mine of Bell County, Ky., an Appalachian Wildlife Foundation location, on July 22, 2014. (Chris Musgrave)

Bad actors of the past made the Surface Mine Reclamation Act necessary. If you’re unfamiliar with the industry, you may be surprised to learn that reclaiming is part of the regular process, and typically leaves the land better than before it was mined. Why? Because that original land would have washed out about 100 years ago when the chestnut blight ravaged the forest (the restoration of the American chestnut is a subject for another story).

Elk enjoying a reclaimed surface coal mine in Martin County, Ky., on Aug. 20, 2015. It’s this grassland that they like. (Chris Musgrave)
(Daniel Ulrich)
(Daniel Ulrich)

Now, drainage controls are engineered, preventing washout. Native grasses are planted along with nut-bearing trees to promote wildlife. Within a few years, what started out like a scene from “Mad Max Beyond Thunder Dome” is a lush paradise that supports diverse wildlife.

No better example can be found than that of the privately held Appalachian Wildlife Foundation. It’s in the final stages of building a public educational research station, located in Bell County, Kentucky, where the first mountaintop removal mining site in the United States is. People unfamiliar with the reclamation process have no idea it was mined, and the elk couldn’t care less.

Modern-day surface mining is like making sausage: The process is not pretty but the end result is great. The location of the wildlife foundation several decades ago more resembled the surface of Mars or the moon as the top of the mountain was removed of the overburden in order to reach the valuable coal seams below. When coal is too close to the surface, the ground is not stable and it’s not safe to mine underground. To access this coal, the ground above must first be removed.

(Daniel Ulrich)

It is only fitting this wildlife sanctuary was once paraded by those opposed to mining as an example of how awful mining is, because active mining is ugly. This short-sighted view ignored the big picture and the responsible and forward-thinking stewardship by the landowners. When mining was first completed and the reclamation process started, the first few years the land was home to only grasses and low brush and briers taking hold. After a few years and seasons, the soil develops as vegetation decays returning to soil. Per the requirements based on extensive research, the soil is only compacted to certain point to prevent run-off, but not so tight as to prevent trees from easily re-establishing, (early reclamation law required soil be very compacted, inadvertently thwarting vegetation, and thus wildlife returning).

Today most people wouldn’t know Boone’s Ridge was a mine, (with limited active mining still occurring). This is true of most surface mining today, as only contour mining is permitted, where the peak must remain and only the outer edge of a coal seam is mined creating a bench. This bench is filled post-mining and the mountain is returned to its original contours. Once these location are covered with significant hardwood trees, they are indistinguishable from other parts of the hillside not mined to the untrained eye.

Education Works

The many creeks and streams in the region were once clogged with decades of trash and sewage from straight pipes.

Today efforts by private volunteer groups such as PRIDE (Personal Responsibility In a Desirable Environment) remove trash from the streams every April. Over the past decades, septic tanks and new sewage treatment plants have almost ended raw sewage discharge. As a result, fish and aquatic species are flourishing, and even beavers and river otters are returning.

The Salato Wildlife Center in Frankfort, Ky. (Chris Musgrave)

I currently serve on the board of the Kentucky Environmental Education Council, which has played a key part in cultural change for the last several decades by exposing Kentucky students to environmental issues and terms.

Yet another factor changing culture is simply time: The outlaw hardscrabble poacher culture borne of desperate times of the Great Depression has to a large degree died out or become too old and feeble to do much harm. Less fortunate segments of society now have social safety nets and improved infrastructure making it easier to meet basic needs unavailable in the past.

This certainly has helped remove the pressure of necessity to subsist. Most sportsmen today buy licenses and make good faith efforts to follow the seasons, limits, and regulations.

The Salato Wildlife Center in Frankfort, Ky. (Chris Musgrave)

Private corporations can play a role as well, often the ones contributing to funds that make much-needed conservation efforts possible.

The Salato Wildlife Center in Frankfort, Ky. (Chris Musgrave)

Having studied the history of energy and environmental law and being a sportsman myself, I’ve heard much blaming of corporations, industry, and hunters of today for the harms of the past. Education has helped dispel some of these misconceptions. And yes, we do have some real environmental problems in this world; most have root causes traceable to the desperation of poverty, corrupt systems of government, or ignorance of the harm of our actions.

For example, when the Soviet Union collapsed, desperation and anarchy nearly wiped out caviar sturgeon in Russia. Corruption happens, too. Recently, when a mine in Pike County started receiving complaints from surrounding neighbors, it turned out the federal mine inspector was accepting bribes to not enforce the law. Once discovered, it was stopped and the inspector and operator are now in jail. Ignorance of the consequences of actions factors into these environmental problems. Take the example of DDT pesticides; once the harm was discovered, regulations caught up and banned its use.

The wilds are returning to Eastern Kentucky in what could be called a triumphal environmental story. Sportsmen license fees and private funding have been the backbone of conservation and restoration efforts, and even cultural awareness is increasing. (Chris Musgrave)

I saw a wild bald eagle about seven miles from Lexington, Kentucky, just last week. Last summer, a black bear was spotted downtown near a University of Kentucky hospital. These occurrences were unthinkable 30 years ago.

Chris Musgrave is a Kentucky attorney, farmer, and policy professional in energy, environment, agriculture, education, elections, history, and government administration and affairs. He enjoys hunting, fishing, and writing music and articles for fun. He is also a board member of the Kentucky Environmental Education Council and Historic Preservation Review Boards.

Categories
Arts & Letters

Reawakening a Giant

How interior designer Chuck Chewning and architect Christian Sottile oversaw a sensitive restoration of one of Savannah’s landmark mansions

In his illustrious design career, Chuck Chewning has executed major projects in Europe and North America, winning big awards. Yet it might have appeared that even someone of Chewning’s virtuosity would need to reach deep into his repertoire to restore the Armstrong Mansion in 2017. This 26,100-square-foot Italian Renaissance Revival palace stands at 447 Bull Street in Savannah, Georgia, across from the 30-acre Forsyth Park with its sensational fountain, and just around the corner from Savannah College of Art and Design, where Chewning studied years before. The sheer scale of the commission was daunting.

How fortunate that his client, Richard Kessler—hotel magnate, real estate developer, and philanthropist—happened to have warehouses filled with decorative arts, musical instruments, and fine-art pieces that he had collected over the years. While working on another commission for a newly built house in Creole plantation style, Chewning and his small staff also bought items for the mansion’s interiors, shopping at auctions for two years. Kessler’s vast inventory helped to get things going much faster.

“Richard’s personal collections are so vast and in such a range, that it was quite easy to go through and say, ‘Okay, I need Jacobean pieces.’ He had them. That actually was not a problem at all,” Chewning said.

kessler mansion
Early 20th-century Italian sculptures sit in the loggia that overlooks Forsyth Park across the street. (Thomas Loof Photography)

When the original architect Henrik Wallin’s completed mansion, with its fireproof concrete construction, was featured in “The American Architect” periodical in 1919, the public rooms on the first floor were decorated in different period styles. Guests were received and entertained there.

“In a way, they’re almost like theatrical stage sets,” Chewning said. “And that really dictated how they needed to be furnished.” The dining room is Georgian, but the music room is a French Louis. Arts and crafts details in a corner room reflect the contemporary trend at the time of the mansion’s construction.

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The interiors, done by designer Chuck Chewning, reflect different period styles, with furnishings from the client’s vast inventory of fine-art pieces and objects bought by Chewning’s staff at auctions. (Thomas Loof Photography)

The primary objective was to return the three-story mansion to its original purpose as a home—in this case, for Kessler and his wife. George Ferguson Armstrong, a shipping magnate, first commissioned the project in 1916. After his family’s time in it, the mansion served as a junior college from 1935 (Kessler took classes there before moving on to Georgia Tech). Later, it was briefly owned by Jim Williams, famed as the protagonist of the nonfiction book about a local murder, “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.” After 1970, it became a law office. Kessler’s acquisition and the restoration program delighted Savannah’s preservationists. While the mansion was well-maintained, it had grit and smudges from nearly a full century of use. Previous owners had also made interior modifications, such as dropped ceilings and built-out walls.

“It was very satisfying to know that the building had been purchased by someone with the means to reverse some of those less sympathetic changes,” said Ryan Arvay, the Historic Savannah Foundation’s director of preservation and historic properties.

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The dining room, done in the Georgian style. (Thomas Loof Photography)

Assessing the job ahead, Chewning admitted himself through the solid-bronze front doors with their elaborate Beaux Arts detailing, registered the first floor’s stylistic variations, and ascended the cantilevered solid-marble staircase. He found 13 bedrooms and 19 bathrooms. There are also four kitchenettes and a commodious chef’s kitchen. On the first floor, a crew stripped away the walls shrouding features such as carved walnut panels and a cozy wall fountain. Meticulously molded plaster and dramatically sculpted friezes also emerged.

“We discovered original details and finishes still existing that we were surprised to see because we thought possibly they had been destroyed or lost in the renovations,” Chewning said.

A special challenge was the fenestration. The 125 steel-framed and mullioned windows with bronze hardware had represented something of a breakthrough for their maker, International Casement Co., which featured them in a catalog in 1920. Having determined that the glass panes were originally covered with lace, Chewning set about to replicate the panels. He found a lace mill in Scotland but worried about the effects of Georgia’s summer sun on the natural fibers.

“They would just sort of rot,” he said. The solution was to use a flame-retardant, dimensionally stable polyester yarn called Trevira CS. “That was one thing we were able to do that was innovative but still was in the context of the traditional history.”

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The music room, done in the French Louis style. (Thomas Loof Photography)

Then he had to rustle up the damasks, silks, velvets, and tapestries that would be expected inside traditional period rooms. One of the best expressions of his decorative approach was the original music conservatory room, which opens onto the roof terraces. He placed a drum kit, a Hammond B-3 organ, and Kessler’s Bösendorfer Imperial grand piano that was designed by F.A. “Butzi” Porsche. An ornamental theme of Chinese antiques seemed to work with the rest of the house. “And that idea of this decadent chinoiserie party room speaks to the period of the 1920s, when the house had just come to life,” Chewning said.

Meanwhile, the architect behind the restoration, Christian Sottile, proceeded with the structural work. He designed a new carriage house in keeping with the original style and added a pool. Yet the mansion was also technologically advanced for its time, with features like a central vacuum system, some 21 miles of wiring, recirculating hot water system, and rain-head showers.

“It was built to the highest standards of its time, really a commercial standard,” Sottile said. “Our thinking with the restoration was to bring in the best technologies of today to show it’s not a museum piece, but it’s in fact a living building.” Air conditioning topped the list of modern amenities to be added. “We ended up with 37 separate air-conditioning units hidden throughout the home so that they’re invisible.” And the building got digital updates, allowing every light switch to be controlled with a smartphone.

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Stately granite Ionic columns stand tall in the portico, inspired by the villas designed by Italian Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio. (Thomas Loof Photography)

Upon completion of the restoration program in 2019, the home—now called the Armstrong Kessler Mansion—received the President’s Award from the Historic Savannah Foundation. Ryan Arvay said this recognition is reserved for projects of unusual scope and complexity. “It’s meant to showcase a standout property in a field of already outstanding projects,” he said. “That is a landmark house, no doubt about it. … It is really an architectural masterwork. Everything that Kessler did on the property, from cleaning the masonry to restoring interior spaces to original configuration, was really exemplary.”

Ronald Ahrens’s first magazine article was 40 years ago for Soap Opera Digest. His contributions to the much lamented Automobile Magazine spanned a 32-year period. Nowadays he’s on a 15-year run with DBusiness (“Detroit’s Premier Business Journal”). Ronald lives near Palm Springs, Calif., where he struggles to understand desert gardening.